Denise in Maracaibo

Life in Venezuela

Manuel Rosales seeking asylum in Peru

Posted by ddelaney on April 22, 2009

Former presidential candidate against Chavez, former governor of Zulia state, and recently resigned mayor of Maracaibo Rosales is now apparently seeking asylum in Peru. There were rumors he was in Panama, but I imagine that would have been too obvious.  The saga continues…

* Chavez rival seeks asylum in Peru *
Venezuelan opposition leader Manuel Rosales asks for asylum in Peru, saying he is being politically persecuted back home.
Full story:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/em/-/1/hi/world/americas/8010882.stm
Opposition Leader Seeks Asylum in Peru After Fleeing Venezuela
A top Venezuelan opposition leader is seeking political asylum in Peru, according to his aides, after fleeing his country to avoid what he calls a politically motivated witch hunt directed by the government of President Hugo Chávez.
(By Juan Forero, The Washington Post)

The latest in local news is that the election commission could put together new elections for mayor within three months.  I wonder if  I’ll get to experience yet another election here in Venezuela!

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Update

Posted by ddelaney on March 27, 2009

The last few weeks have been busy! I have been putting aside a few bits and pieces of the news, however, when something particularly interesting or concerning has happened.

Yesterday, I heard of a case of three Colombian women, with five children between them, picked up in what seems to be, from the vague information I was given, a case of human trafficking. It is unclear if the women are refugees. They were picked up in San Francisco, which is a separate municipality from that of Maracaibo but is part and parcel of the city because it is where the bridge connects from across the lake. From what I hear, there seem to be more cases of human trafficking in Venezuela.

About a week ago, the Venezuelan came out criticizing the U.S. for saying that Venezuela is not doing enough to combat drugs. It added that the United States is in no position to criticize another country about its human rights status seeing as though the U.S. still runs Guantanamo Bay. In addition, someone came out with the headline “Illegal U.S. Consulates in Venezuela: Propaganda and conspiracy centers.” It claims that “American Corners”—which are like mini-libraries housed in areas like universities, schools, etc. (there are a handful throughout the country) –are Washington’s instruments of propaganda. Not only that, but they subvert and violate diplomatic regulations because they do not have authorization from the host government. In fact, the corner in the university where one of the Fulbrighters is working has been shut down. While the books in these corners are often about democracy, voting, U.S. politics, etc. (I know that we have the same books donated by the embassy sitting in CEVAZ’s library), they are in no way propaganda. If anything, the centers are there to promote reading and learning. I would say most, if not all, are hardly substantial, or places that anyone visits or uses very much.

In other news, Chavez has taken over the ports and airports here, in areas under opposition governments. Last week, I saw the national military at the port. For better or worse, I have heard that this hasn’t meant any changes in the functioning of the airport. As it is, the military does a revision of everything going out on a flight before you even check in. While Chavez says that it is all an effort to “unify” the country, it really just means that the national government, rather than state or municipal government, will be able to reap the financial benefits of taxing of departures or arrivals. I can hardly imagine that this will mean that the highly chaotic airport will be more streamlined or make any more sense with a national government company running it (you have to arrive three hours early and the last time, I spent those three hours in a total of six different lines).

As you all may have heard, Obama has talked about trying to buy more oil from Brazil instead of Venezuela, if Brazil can guarantee a certain level of production. Anti-chavistas here are hopeful…they say that they think things will have to get worse, much worse (economically and perhaps otherwise), before things get better.

Just before, Chavez called the Colombian Defense Minister a threat to the region and assured that world that Venezuela is ready for war with Colombia, if it should provoke it.

Never a dull moment here in Venezuela, huh?

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Economics & a taxi driver

Posted by ddelaney on March 4, 2009

Venezuela‘s hard truth; Hugo Chavez built his revolution on the back of the oil boom. But crude’s slide has him backtracking, Marina Jiménez writes

http://business.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090303.wibvenezuela03/CommentStory/Business/home

By Marina Jiménez

3 March 2009

The Globe and Mail

“…Mr. Merendes, the former finance minister, believes the government would rather run up a big deficit than cut social spending. “Chavez will lose some support during economic hard times but not as much as other leaders,” he predicts, quoting the popular refrain: Con hambre, sin empleo, con Chavez me resteo. With hunger, and without work, with Chavez I struggle.”

By the numbers

$90-billion

Amount the Venezuelan government received in oil revenue last year, a figure that is expected to decrease by two-thirds in 2009.

$42-billion

Venezuela’s foreign reserves, which may be used to cover the lack of oil revenue this year. If that’s the case, the fund will run out by the end of this year.

$20-billion

Amount of investment needed to develop Venezuela’s Orinoco Basin projects.

$700

Average monthly wage in Venezuela

(All in U.S. dollars.)

I came across this story today and felt it would be good to pass along so that people can get a sense of how the low oil prices affects Venezuela, the 5th largest producer. Chavez was able to spend large amounts of money on social spending when oil prices went sky high. As the economic crisis started to hit, he denied that Venezuela would be affected. Swore up and down that the Venezuelan economy, with the “bolivar fuerte” (strong Bolivar) as its currency, was practically immune. Then oil prices began to plummet. Only then did the illusion (self-delusion) start to fade and he admitted that Venezuela would be affected. But the U.S. was to blame of course (fair point), so he was able to rally against that. The rest—earning top spot in terms of highest inflation in the region, shortages of foods that Venezuela is less and less able to import, not planning on reducing spending substantially (while still maintaining a social program)—Chavez can’t really blame on something, or someone, else. We’ll see if low oil prices does force Chavez reduce spending, if not this year, then next, when he exhausts foreign reserves. Friends of mine joked that it’s all over for him if he raises the price of gas here. They just may be right. However, Chavez, while many things, isn’t stupid. A lot of people say he’ll have to devalue the bolivar fuerte at some point. I’m sure he’ll wait that out too. Most predictions claim he’ll wait until the end of this year. I’d rather not be around for it.


Taxi driver

Taxi drivers here have not been as chatty as other countries I have lived in. I really believe that most are pretty skeptical that I speak Spanish. I find that here, more than in other Latin American countries, people get too caught up in how foreign I look and expect to hear an equally foreign language pouring out of my mouth. Seems that they don’t really realize I’m speaking to them in their language. Listen to me! Anyway, as a result cab rides tend to be rather quiet then (except with the couple of cabbies that I know; I met one through a friend).

Today, on the way home from the UNHCR, a driver from the cab company I trust asked if I spoke English. I said yes, and Spanish, too. He knew some English from living in Miami and Spain. That began an interesting conversation in Spanglish, which was mostly Spanish with a few choice words in English and a few gestures on his part when he didn’t want me to just provide him with a word in English.

In Spain he got to know “ingleses,” or some English people. Apparently, he worked with some English motorcycle design (artistic body work) company. He races a motorcycle himself. I commented that it was dangerous, to which he admitted it can be. “But las mujeres!” (the women!) and he kissed his fingertips as if he was a French chef serving a meal with “Bon appétit!” He has high hopes for his 9-year old son to speak English. Then “he have two idiomas” (languages). He motioned his hands to show eating. “Two way eat,” he explained. “English is dollar,” he continued. The dollar is valued everywhere (I nearly added, “Almost”, given the Venezuelan economy’s relationship with the dollar). He apparently lost a very good job opportunity because he didn’t speak English, which is common among middle-aged individuals I learned through some of my adult students, and he doesn’t want that for his son. Unfortunately, they live in a municipality south of the city, San Francisco, so he hasn’t been able to enroll his son at CEVAZ; it’s just too far. I encouraged my taxista to encourage his son. He insisted on discounting my fare for that ride and even waited to see that I entered my house all right…

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New month, old rhetoric

Posted by ddelaney on March 3, 2009

Today’s news carried some interesting headlines. One of the local regional newspapers, La Verdad, reported that the National’s Assembly’s Education Commission will soon begin reviewing text books to see which authors “distort” history (by simplifying U.S. imperialism or foreign affairs since 9/11). They will also think about ways to give expression to socialism and communism. One of the teachers here said that if Chavez’s administration wants to say that imperialism is bad, they must also admit that communism has failed in every country where it’s been attempted, or even that socialism is the quickest path to capitalism, like Winston Churchill said.


While it is not surprising to read that Chavez has begun to compare Obama to Bush, it is remarkable to read that he is essentially telling Obama to mind his own business. In fact, “Venezuela no es su problema, ese es nuestro problema” (Venezuela isn’t his problem, it’s our problem). It certainly is a problem these days. After hearing about another of my good friends here being robbed (and not just your standard on the street mugging)—the fourth, in fact—I can’t help but feel that Chavez isn’t dealing with some of Venezuela’s biggest problems. Spare us the anti-Obama (or Bush or U.S. or whatever is his fancy on a given day) rhetoric. I think all Venezuelans, chavista or not, should not be complacent about the problems of violence and insecurity here, among others.

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Facetas

Posted by ddelaney on March 1, 2009

http://www.panorama.com.ve/10revistas/facetas22-02-2009/08.jpg

It is a little strange, I have to admit, to see a picture and article about myself in the same magazine with Juanes, a Colombian pop star, on the cover. But it’s there…check it out. The local Zulia published newspaper Panorama puts out a Sunday magazine called Facetas. Our press & media guy at CEVAZ was contacted by the reporter who did the story. She was looking for women from other countries who are currently living in Maracaibo and he suggested me, especially given that it would help to promote CEVAZ.  For those who don’t read Spanish, don’t worry. The article, short as it is, confuses the details of my life, but I’m not too concerned. My students at CEVAZ were very excited to see me in the magazine and think I’m famous. Hardly!

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“El sí ganó.”

Posted by ddelaney on February 16, 2009

I’ve witnessed quite a few consequential political moments in my months here in Venezuela—from the November 23rd elections here to the election of President Obama at home—and today I am the bystander of another one. Today, “yes won.” That is to say, the referendum to lift term limits has been passed. Chavez can run for re-election in 2012. 2012? Yes, in February of 2009, Hugo Chavez Frias is seeking to secure power for many years to come. And he’s still three years from those elections.

For weeks, they have been predicting an extremely tight vote. Most polls showed the “no” winning, in some cases, by six or so percentage points. I was and was not surprised to see on the news here at about 9:30pm that Chavez won. That is to say, I was surprised by the hour, not that he won. “El sí ganó.” Considering that it took many more hours for the results of November’s elections to come out, I thought I wouldn’t know until morning. And yet, I read and watch the news to find that the initial count put a supposed 80% of voters with “yes” while a mere 20% with “no.” The numbers have since been adjusted to say that 54% or so voted yes. I write this while watching the crowds at the president’s Miraflores palace in Caracas chant, “Uh ah Chavez no se va.” A man in the audience thrusts up above the crowd a small boy dressed up like Chavez; he even bears a slight resemblance, especially with the red beret. Fireworks are going off here in Maracaibo. I write this with a tone of skeptism, too.  Some here will question if the numbers reflect the real vote at all. I don’t think we’ll ever know.

I write this as my heart sinks a little for Venezuela. I have not emerged as a chavista nor necessarily a staunch supporter of the opposition. I don’t really believe it to be my place to do so. However, political persuasions aside, I do not believe that lifting term limits is a wise move in this country, now or ever. I am disappointed. But, to be honest, a part of me is slightly relieved. Just last week or so, he said publicly that the constitution would allow him to hold multiple referendum votes in the future if this did not pass today. Therefore, if “no” had won, I foresaw more votes. In an increasingly polarized country, which was perhaps never clearer than in the campaigns leading up to this vote, I feared future votes.

Then again, when pushed to make a prediction, I thought he would win. I cannot imagine why he would push through a referendum essentially for the second time, if he didn’t think he would win. He didn’t take the first defeat well in 2007. I also could not imagine him taking a defeat well today, either. And after not being fully convinced that voting here is a clean process, I figured he would win, one way or another. For now, I’ll leave you all with this, and wait for the flurry of commentary and such that will emerge tomorrow.

Strangely enough, I will be traveling to Chavez’s birthplace, Barinas, this Thursday evening. I’m off on a trip to los llanos, the plains, here with some other Fulbighters. From Barinas, we will arrive at a ranch-like family-run wildlife safari cottage. Should be interesting!

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Pictures-community visit 11 Feb. 2009

Posted by ddelaney on February 12, 2009

acnur-11-feb-09-071acnur-11-feb-09-066acnur-11-feb-09-054

Mural painted on Consejo Comunal

Mural painted on Consejo Comunal

acnur-11-feb-09-047acnur-11-feb-09-040acnur-11-feb-09-015acnur-11-feb-09-034acnur-11-feb-09-013acnur-11-feb-09-033acnur-11-feb-09-034acnur-11-feb-09-036acnur-11-feb-09-074acnur-11-feb-09-043

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“Thanks to Chavez, I have learned to paint.”

Posted by ddelaney on February 12, 2009

Mural painted on Consejo Comunal

Mural painted on Consejo Comunal

Today ACNUR teamed up with Caritas Maracaibo, an organization of the Catholic church, to carry out a series of community visits. Both agencies follow up on asylum seekers and ACNUR is looking for areas where it feels it can carry out projects this year. I get to accompany them on such visits and then later on when the projects are up and running. The day before, I participated in a Participatory Assessment, which is an open meeting for refugees at Caritas facilitated by ACNUR. I can now say that I have talked to Colombian refugees here in Maracaibo. While I have many stories to tell, I would like to focus on the political aspect of things today. Given that the “yes/no” vote (to decide whether or not a constitutional amendment is made to allow unlimited terms for the presidency and other offices) is Sunday, the political campaigning in these barrios was intense and is worth noting. In addition, the photos attached to this post are all from our visit to barrios here in Maracaibo today (Mis Delicias, 4 de abril, and others).

We had a comical start to the day when the Caritas jeep-like vehicle started to turn the corner at a busy intersection in the city and the six passengers inside practically hit the ceiling. We were stuck in a REALLY deep hole. It was impossible to see, given that there was nothing marking it and the traffic was bumper-to-bumper. The entire tire was in the ground. At first, two guys on motorcycles stopped to try to help but couldn’t. I took a few photos and the next thing we knew, eight guys appear to push while our driver Jesus gave it the gas and it came out! The guys just went on their merry way. Jesus, a deacon, yelled “Thanks and God bless you!” and that was that.

Back in the vehicle, we were all so glad for the help. Then Jesus said, “ You know what, they saw Denise and came running!” So the joke became that thanks to me, our morning was not wasted waiting for help to get the jeep.

As we made our way again to the barrios we hoped to reach, we passed by another sector called San Jacinto where there were huge crowds of people. As we passed, it became obvious what was going on. It looked like a fair. It was a campaign event for Chavez’s party. Massive lines of people waited for free food as music blasted from loudspeakers (mind you, it was not yet 9am) and huge inflated plastic Chavez doll swayed in the breeze. It was just a taste of the propaganda we would see this morning.

We came upon what I thought must be chavista campaign headquarters, but in fact it was a school, “Colegio 4 de febrero.” Everything was red. The fencing in the front, the floors, most of the walls, the tables and chairs in the cafeteria, etc. The men finishing the construction were also in red Chavez shirts. In barrio Mil Delicias we encountered a similarly red building, a Consejo Comunal, or community council. One of the outer walls was being painted with a simple white and red portrait of Chavez and his name in huge lettering. I asked the three young painters—a teenage boy and two girls, one of whom was wearing a t-shirt with a full-length picture of comandante Chavez on it—if I could take pictures. They shyly agreed. One of my colleagues asked if they had been long-time painters or recently took it on. The one in the Chavez tee hostilely explained, “Thanks to Chavez, I have learned to paint.” This is a good example of both the extreme ways in which chavistas think of their president and the hostility in the debate for or against him.


However, witnessing Chavez extremism was balanced by conversations with people that agree with many of the changes he has brought but disagree with his bid for indefinite re-election. In other words, they may have voted for him in the last election and even for his party’s candidates in November but they will vote no on Sunday. Amidst the polarized political campaigns, this more nuanced position is a breath of fresh air.

I soon hope to write about the refugees and asylum seekers I got to know. In the meantime, check out the photos…

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Grocery shopping and other random experiences…

Posted by ddelaney on February 9, 2009

I have been meaning to write about the grocery store experience here. I always find grocery stores in other countries quite interesting. It’s a place you might expect to be quite similar in different countries and different continents. This is largely true. There are aisles of items, grocery carriages, baskets, check out lines and cashiers. Well, in India there are not so much lines as masses of people that congregate near the cash registers, openly cutting other people.

There are a few different grocery store chains here but the closest to me is Enne. It’s about 2 blocks from my house so I can easily walk with groceries. I do admit that having to buy 5-liter jugs of drinking water prevents any grocery run from being light. There are nicer grocery stores a little further away. For instance, there is Cada but it’s really not worth the walk. I do not say this because I am lazy but simply because a longer walk also means more opportunity to be harasses on the street, which I try to minimize.

Enne is most comparable to Market Basket, for those of you from Massachusetts (Cada would be more like a Shaw’s). And not just any Market Basket, but the sketchy, dirty one on John Fitch Highway in Fitchburg. It has the basics. Sometimes it doesn’t, depending on the general food shortages. It’s really the people that make the experience. There is no rhyme or reason to the way carts are pushed. Aisles are narrow. I’m often stuck in traffic jams, and I just carry a single basket! The lines are always long, no matter which day or time you go. People often have you hold their place in line while they do half their groceries. People will sneakily, awkwardly stand between lines to then dart in front of you if yours moves faster, as if they were always really in that line. Reminds me of the women that can’t wait for their turn in the restroom either. The best instance of this was in the Panama airport. I was on the same flight as a Fulbrighter in Colombia and as we waited in line (the airport just doesn’t have enough bathrooms), two women (presumably Panamanian, as I couldn’t identify their accent) pushed to the front of the line to ask if there was a line. They settled not exactly behind us but beside us. A telltale signal that they’ll try to cut or talk their way in front of us One apparently just couldn’t handle it and was practically jumping around like a child. Her friend was standing so closely behind me I couldn’t move an inch. Next thing you know, she has her hands in my hair! I became accustomed to this after children in Bolivia often touched it when they sat behind me in public transportation, but this was a bit more odd. I mostly pretended not to notice as she marbled at my hair. Meanwhile, my traveling companion was firm with the jumping lady, explaining that we were all in the same position and must wait our turns.

I digress. Back to the grocery store, where the cashiers are seated, which isn’t so strange. Some cashiers have an additional employee standing next to them, observing their work. It’s unclear if they are training. They often stare at me until one of them gets up the nerve to ask where I am from. I usually make the joke, “How could you tell I’m not from Maracaibo?” I don’t appear to belong here anymore than a duck would among a flock of swans. Then there are the swarms of young men and boys that work at the store bagging groceries, helping people out with carts, unloading groceries into car trunks, etc. There are almost always many more than there is work for them to do.

The customers. Well, today I saw the most interesting case. She was unloading her groceries onto the conveyor belt across from mine. No one could help but notice her shove her cell phone between her breasts. Needless to say, her shirt was low-cut enough to do this in one swift movement. When she finished, the cell phone didn’t come out. I don’t think I will be adopting this method of freeing up my hands. The woman two people ahead of me in line had just about every item price-checked and ended up only purchasing half of what was in her cart. Then her cart practically landed in my middle as she aimlessly tried to get it out of the way. Finally, of the male employees pretty much mopped my feet as he tried to clean up our aisle. In a store with so much traffic, the floor is never clean. Mind you, I just picked out some of the more vivid details. To say Enne is hectic is a bit of an understatement. Considering my refrigerator is small, I go through at least once if not twice a week. If you’re not in a rush, it’s amusing if not almost fun.

In the vein of commenting about quotidian observations, I think I’ll go ahead and describe the “Centro de Comunicaciones.” Yes, a “Communications Center” has sprung up near CEVAZ. One day a couple of weeks ago, a woman was seated in a plastic lawn with several cell phones on her lap. This is not so uncommon, where you can pay to make all kinds of calls for a few bolivares fuertes per minute. A few days later, a making plastic table appeared. Soon after, an umbrella was added. The next week, there was a stand with a professionally made sign on it advertising “Centro de Comunicaciones” and a list of the telephone services they offer. Some misspelled, of course. There you have it—the rise of a “communications center.”

Finally, it’s worth mentioning that my landlord has insisted on giving me a Chavez t-shirt for the vote on the 15th. It is red, of course, and the front reads “UH AH la enmienda Si VA” (yes to the amendment). A sing-song chant has been started by chavistas. It goes, “Uh ah, Chavez no se va” (Chavez isn’t going). The back repeats the front with the following list below it in small font, repeated four times:

POR MI DERECHO A VOTAR (for my right to vote)

POR MI LIBERTAD A ELEGIR (for my freedom to choose)

PARA QUE EL PUEBLO DECIDA (for the people to decide)

He firmly relieves Chavez will win a week from now. We’ll just have to see. At first, I thought he expected me to wear the shirt but then he joked that it will make a good souvenir so I don’t think I’ll be disappointing anyone by keeping it in my room.

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Some links & news

Posted by ddelaney on February 4, 2009

I highly recommend the PBS documentary “The Hugo Chavez Show” that came out back in November 2008. You can watch the entire thing, broken into eight chapters. Total of about 90 minutes. http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/hugochavez/view/ It provides a good overview of Chavez’s time in power.

And recommending such a review of his 10 years in office happens to coincide with his actual 10-year anniversary, which was yesterday. In Zulia, today’s news highlights that the National Guard actually went around shutting down businesses (including pharmacies) to ensure that they were observing Chavez’s holiday on Monday, February 2. He declared it a national holiday the day before, Sunday, February 1, in the afternoon. There was quite a bit of pomp and circumstance in Caracas; it appeared pretty quiet here in opposition-governed Maracaibo. I can’t help but feel that a leader could have more anticipation in announcing such a decision. Then again, I have learned that this is Chavez’s way: impulsive. Haphazardly so at times.

For those who want an economic analysis of how the country has changed in the last several years, check out the following article. It’s written by a scathing critic but he makes some compelling points. http://www.foreignaffairs.org/20080301faessay87205-p10/francisco-rodriguez/an-empty-revolution.html

Other interesting bits in the news…Well, I was amused to read that tomorrow there will be a parade in Maracay to commemorate the 17th anniversary of the military rebellion that occurred on February 4, 1992, led by Hugo Chavez. While it was unsuccessful, Chavez was granted a television announcement. He accepted responsibility for the failure, saying that their objectives “for now” hadn’t been achieved. This “for now” (“por ahora”) made him famous. Now, as his supporters campaign to convince voters to vote “yes” on February 15th—which is yes to a constitutional amendment to allow indefinite re-election—they often invoke “por ahora.” Having voted on the same issue (among others) in 2007, with a slim majority voting “no,” it would seem that this past year and a half or so was the “for now.” He didn’t take that well; he wants yes. We’ll see if he gets it. I wish I could believe more in the integrity of elections here but I’m skeptical.

Finally, I’ll mention what you might have seen in the news. A synagogue was attacked in Caracas last week. A dozen or so armed men broke in and spray painted offensive messages, desecrated sacred scrolls and stole computers with a database of the congregation. A number of ambassadors and our second-in-command at the U.S. embassy have expressed their discontent at the act. Some have actually said that Chavez incites this kind of behavior, given how strongly he has come out against Israel and the aid he has given to Palestinians in Gaza. Whatever the cause, it is a despicable act. I hope this is an isolated incident. I recommend the article linked below.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/02/07/AR2009020701972.html

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